Polar ice giants
The question why someone seems to be drawn in such regions again and again is hard to answer. But when you are in such a region, you will know why. Far above the polar circle you will discover another word. This world seems to be completely frozen. In this quietness und loneliness the time seems to run different. You jump into another world, where all the locals look like arranged with this extreme location. No one gets bordered when another storm comes in, or the temperature falls below -20°C again – because it is something normal. For us it isn’t something normal. Imagine feels hard to live in such extreme environment. Especially in winter, where the days are short and the sun never gets high enough to shine bright. But for an adventurous ice climbing trip, it could not be better.
This journey should bring us in new landscapes and ice formations; as well a new team member was with us. Elias Holzknecht – a young and motivated photographer agreed the adventure and came with us to the most northern tip of Norway. We all have been curious about the work with him. Elias brought his drone to enter a new dimension of filming and photographing on ice climbing. With this technique he could show some complete new perspectives of the sport.
This winter had a similar progression in northern Norway than it was in the alps. After a very early snow fall a dry period with changing temperatures formed a huge amount of very rare existing ice formations in this area. We booked the tickets to Tromsø after an advice of Graham Austick, who lives in this area. With to obligatory offroad Jeep we drove high above 70 degree north. We just could not believe what we found at this region. There where endless ice lines waiting to be climbed. We only choose the best looking and longest lines to climb. Mostly on thin ice we climbed some really long routes above the sea, up to 800 meter peaks. On all routes we kept our style to climb everything clean, without the use of any bolts or pitons. After such intense moments it seems to be clear, why someone will be in such regions on and on.
Routes – Kåfjord Skjervøy 2014
route | grade | FA | length | region | style | date | GPS/starts |
Magic mirror | WI5+ | ? | 70m | Seaclliff Larsbergtunnelen | OS | 16.2.2014 | 69,44354° N |
Seaside | M7 WI6+ | x | 60m | Seacliff Larsbergtunnelen | OS | 16.2.2014 | 69,44354° N |
Thinair | WI5 | ? | 50m | Seacliff Larsbergtunnelen | OS | 16.2.2014 | 69,44354° N |
Lynkona | WI7- | x | 150m | Oksen Oksvik | OS | 17.2.2014 | 69,53017° N |
Left hand | WI5 | 150m | Oksen Oksvik | OS | 17.2.2014 | 69,53017° N | |
Torbjørn’s garden | WI5+ | x | 160m | Seacliff Reindalen | OS | 19.2.2014 | 69,75736° N |
Blåbaersuppe | M6 WI4+ | x | 120m | Seacliff Reindalen | OS | 19.2.2014 | 69,75736° N |
Lost & found | WI5 | x | 120m | Seacliff Reindalen | OS | 19.2.2014 | 69,75736° N |
Tiroler tris | WI6 | x | 550m | Trolltinden Kågen | OS | 20.2.2014 | 69,98269° N |
Enter sandman | WI7- | x | 750m | Oksfjellet Kåfjorddalen | OS | 23.2.2014 | 69,46696° N |
Club sauna | WI4 | x | 250m | Arnøy Tjuvdalen | OS | 26.2.2014 | 70,11995° N |
Happy end | M5 WI5 | x | 600m | Pollfjellet Furuflaten | OS | 27.2.2014 | 69,45505° N |