New big line in Zillertal
First ascent of 'Gorillas im Nebel' M10/WI6...
Briefly prior to our trip to Norway, Klaus Kranebitter, Hannes Mair, Benni Purner and me wanted to test our team work in the Zillertal valley. We found a perfect playground before Ginzling at the Gasthaus Karlsteg, an about 100 meters high wall with some insane ice structure. Already at February 10th Benni and me put up the first two mixed pitches. It was a hard work, this two pitches took us six hours of time. We used pitons, bolts, screws and cams for protection. At the end we could realise an outstanding line with a very high amount of ice.
After 20 meters of warm up ice (WI3) the first pitch needs already climbing with full comitment on tricky granite slabs. On this technical M8+ there are about 30 meters on pure ice. After a hanging belay the line follows some cracks to an obvious overhanging corner, the crux of the route. On the second pitch the climbing is a mixture of thin glaces of ice, cracks with natural pro gear and a steep, bolt protected corner. In total it is a demanding pitch around M10. After another hanging belay in the ice the 15 meters free hanging dagger has to be climbed from the right side. After the dagger there are 40 meters of super steep ice in the grade WI6 before you reach the end of the route. On February 15th, just in the right time before a massive warm period Benni and me redpointed all pitches in this wild area! The test for Norway was sucessfull, hopefully this means nothing bad for our trip...
Pics by Klaus Kranebitter und Hannes Mair
