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Polar ice giants

The question why someone seems to be drawn in such regions again and again is hard to answer. But when you are in such a region, you will know why. Far above the polar circle you will discover another word. This world seems to be completely frozen. In this quietness und loneliness the time seems to run different. You jump into another world, where all the locals look like arranged with this extreme location. No one gets bordered when another storm comes in, or the temperature falls below -20°C again – because it is something normal. For us it isn’t something normal. Imagine feels hard to live in such extreme environment. Especially in winter, where the days are short and the sun never gets high enough to shine bright. But for an adventurous ice climbing trip, it could not be better.

This journey should bring us in new landscapes and ice formations; as well a new team member was with us. Elias Holzknecht – a young and motivated photographer agreed the adventure and came with us to the most northern tip of Norway. We all have been curious about the work with him. Elias brought his drone to enter a new dimension of filming and photographing on ice climbing. With this technique he could show some complete new perspectives of the sport.

This winter had a similar progression in northern Norway than it was in the alps. After a very early snow fall a dry period with changing temperatures formed a huge amount of very rare existing ice formations in this area. We booked the tickets to Tromsø after an advice of Graham Austick, who lives in this area. With to obligatory offroad Jeep we drove high above 70 degree north. We just could not believe what we found at this region. There where endless ice lines waiting to be climbed. We only choose the best looking and longest lines to climb. Mostly on thin ice we climbed some really long routes above the sea, up to 800 meter peaks. On all routes we kept our style to climb everything clean, without the use of any bolts or pitons. After such intense moments it seems to be clear, why someone will be in such regions on and on.

Routes – Kåfjord Skjervøy 2014

route

grade

FA

length

region

style

date

GPS/starts

Magic mirror

WI5+

?

70m

Seaclliff Larsbergtunnelen

OS

16.2.2014

69,44354° N
20,30308° E

Seaside

M7 WI6+

x

60m

Seacliff Larsbergtunnelen

OS

16.2.2014

69,44354° N
20,30308° E

Thinair

WI5

?

50m

Seacliff Larsbergtunnelen

OS

16.2.2014

69,44354° N
20,30308° E

Lynkona

WI7-

x

150m

Oksen       Oksvik

OS

17.2.2014

69,53017° N
20,1828° E

Left hand

WI5

150m

Oksen       Oksvik

OS

17.2.2014

69,53017° N
20,1828° E

Torbjørn’s garden

WI5+

x

160m

Seacliff     Reindalen

OS

19.2.2014

69,75736° N
20,29975° E

Blåbaersuppe

M6 WI4+

x

120m

Seacliff     Reindalen

OS

19.2.2014

69,75736° N
20,29975° E

Lost & found

WI5

x

120m

Seacliff     Reindalen

OS

19.2.2014

69,75736° N
20,29975° E

Tiroler tris

WI6

x

550m

Trolltinden Kågen

OS

20.2.2014

69,98269° N
20,88967° E

Enter sandman

WI7-

x

750m

Oksfjellet Kåfjorddalen

OS

23.2.2014

69,46696° N
20,87896° E

Club sauna

WI4

x

250m

Arnøy   Tjuvdalen

OS

26.2.2014

70,11995° N
20,69848° E

Happy end

M5  WI5

x

600m

Pollfjellet Furuflaten

OS

27.2.2014

69,45505° N
20,1603° E

 

 

© 2015 Mag. Albert Leichtfried - Meteorologe - Bergführer - Extremkletterer
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